The best fashion conversations often happen in DMs. And so it was between our EIC Anabel and contributor Nicholas Hilton when news broke today, confirming that Raf Simons would be joining Prada as co-creative director alongside Miuccia Prada. Here’s what they had to say.
NH: I’m sure your eyes are permanently lodged in the back of your head from hearing about this by now, but I’m super intrigued to see what comes of this duo since the news has broken!
AM: Well my only real thought is that I am loving Prada so much right now as it’s reminiscent of Prada in its former glory days, yet feels fresh, and so can’t get any better for me. I have a theory that the direction that most prevailed during the years that one got into fashion, is the one we look for again and again.
Also Miuccia has such a good handle on that careful balance of ugly-pretty, I worry that Raf might tip it on the wrong side of ugly. And I’m wondering what Raf will bring to the table exactly. If it ain’t broken... What do you think?
NH: I agree with you. And I know how this sounds from me, because I truly love Prada, but I can’t decide if she’s rehashing her classics for a new generation or consumer or if she’s simply run out of ideas. At times it feels insecure and others it feels so secure. Does she not care what everyone thinks? I don’t think so. And perhaps that’s why I like it. That ‘fuck it’ attitude is very appealing to me.
I wonder what Raf will bring as well. Whenever I look at his womenswear for Calvin or even when he sprinkles in some for his menswear collections, I always think ‘Prada’. They seem to have similar tastes. What instantly came to my mind is: retirement. I can’t help but wonder if Miuccia is grooming Raf for her replacement In the coming years?
Backstage at Prada FW20. Photo: theimpression.com
AM: Hmm, that’s interesting I never stopped to think of it that way. It was more of a relief that *that* Prada is back. But don’t you think it feels somewhat fresh? Not comparing, as what Daniel Lee has done in revamping Bottega is exemplary, but I think she’s managed to achieve this with Prada by something like 30%.
Yes, Raf and Miuccia have a natural shared aesthetic. Preppy, ironic, ugly-pretty luxe. But in terms of grooming, I don’t want her to retire. I feel like Prada will lose its glitz if Raf is left alone.
NH: It does feel very fresh to me! And I’ve heard sales are on the up as well, so it’s all good news for Prada group. Are you enjoying Lee’s Bottega?
It’s so hard for me. I’m a fan, I really am.. but Raf left to his own devices? His Dior left much to be desired at times, his Jil was incredible. His Calvin was obviously a huge financial failure.. I don’t know... we shall see. I wonder if Katie Grand will be kept on as stylist at Miu Miu once these changes take place?
Miuccia is a Taurus and Raf a Capricorn. Two stubborn earth signs!
AM: Yes Prada pulled itself out of quite the slump. I am living for Lee’s Bottega. Isn’t everyone?
Dior, Dior, let’s not even go there.
Agree, it’s hard to mess up Jil though. I guess I’m not too optimistic about Raf as too in love with current Prada because it’s so much like 2010/11 Prada, but happy to be proven wrong. I don’t know, Katie seems to be integral to the Miu Miu brand.
Ah yes, the whole vibe is definitely earthy and grounded. I wonder what sign Daniel Lee is...Aquarius. Hmm but so is Maria Grazia, so perhaps will not look too heavily to astrology.
NH: Haha. I’m honestly so split about all of this. We will have to wait until September to see what happens!
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