I met Stephanie, a fellow Toronto transplant in London, several years ago when she invited me to be on her Fashion Originators Podcast to discuss fashion psychology. We’ve since stayed in touch and bonded over a love of fashion-tech, entrepreneurship, and a shared goal of doing something different within the industry. Stephanie has had an impressive career trajectory to date, counting some of the most innovative companies as employers, including Lyst, Farfetch, the Yoox Net-a-Porter Group, and now, SHOWstudio. This time, she was the focus when we sat down again to talk about sneakers, fashion, feelings, and why she associates ruffles with creepy doll outfits.
How has your style evolved over the years in regards to changes in your life?
I’d say I’ve come to learn what pieces I wear, and what pieces I don’t wear. I’ve honed a self-awareness that I love Nike Cortez or their Undercover Daybreak collaboration, turtlenecks and wide-leg trousers. I also love tailored coats, vintage-inspired glasses, and t-shirts from my favorite bands, Aritizia or art exhibitions.
I’ve learned that I hate constricting silk tops, anything too boxy, ruffles and overly cutesy heels. I love things that fit – aren’t too long or too short (since I’m quite tall). Overtime, I’ve also learned the value in buying fewer items, but buying items made of higher quality materials. The less items I have in my closet, the easier it is to pack for trips and put myself together effortlessly.
I notice particular changes in my style when I either move place, or move jobs. When I left my preppy university town in Scotland and moved to Shoreditch, I noticed myself gravitate towards more vintage pieces and laidback suiting. When I started my podcast Fashion Originators, I also began to wear younger more value-driven brands (as I befriended young designers and educated myself more about sustainable fashion). As well, I've become less of an impulse shopper - it takes weeks of mulling over whether I need something before I actually take the plunge and buy it.
Stephanie and I also share a love of Air Force 1s and Alain de Botton. (Photo: instagram.com/stephieirwin)
You've done the PSYKHE personality test. How do you feel that your scores relate to your style.
I’d say my low-moderate agreeableness and high neuroticism and conscientiousness is accurate. I'd say neuroticism perhaps translates into my look in the sense that have a bit of a 'controlled' uniform gives me a sense of peace. As well, I think the ability to move easily in a comfortable pair of sneakers, but to still appear cool and ready for anything, also appeals to that sense of needing to be in control perhaps. As a result, I am very decisive about what I wear. When other people ask me for my honest style opinion, I don’t usually hold back either. (Take the test here.
How does your style change when you feel sad, or any other negative emotions? Do you have any go-to pieces that you consider armor - something that helps you feel stronger emotionally?
When I don’t feel great, I gravitate towards luxurious fabrics and a solid uniform, which helps me feel safe in a weird way (loose trousers in an elegant fabric, a cashmere sweater and a pair of super luxurious trainers). Nothing tight – materials that are elegant yet forgiving (I never wear sweats unless I’m on a plane, and even still I pair sweatpants with an elegant jacket or shirt). As for my armor pieces, I always opt for a statement sneaker (Acne Studios, Axel Arigato) and my classic Acne camel coat (which makes even sweats at the airport look chic). If I want to feel powerful but a bit more feminine, I also have a pair of 4-inch heeled boots from ALLSAINTS that I can practically run in.
What about when you feel happy? What clothing, brands, or aesthetic do you gravitate to when you feel happy, relaxed or to express positive emotions?
When I’m happy I still opt for ‘armor’ pieces, but I also dive more into color and pieces that are more revealing (shorter dresses, lower-cut tops depending on the occasion). Otherwise I usually dress as I described above but maybe with a few bolder pieces that aren’t necessarily time-proven favorites yet. In having my uplifting uniform be fundamentally the same as my ‘happy clothes’, I think this also helps me become re-centered and happier.
“I really hate ruffles. They make me look like a fat baby, for lack of a better way to put it.”
Which designer, living, do you think best understands current female psychology? Why?
I wouldn’t say any sole designer really understands it – perhaps Stella McCartney because of her ability to embrace both beautiful tailoring and more traditionally feminine pieces. I also think Anine Bing is great because of her strong business mind, but her focus on quality pieces women actually want to wear. I think women want to wear Anine's pieces because they're actually stuff you need (you could wear it on a date, to the grocery store, to work etc) - a great pair of ankle boots you can walk in but still go out for drinks in, a slinky camisole, a functional jacket. When Anine designs her pieces, it's as if she has her lifestyle in mind, and imagines a woman as someone who is a functional being who goes out and does things.
What is one piece in your closet that has the most emotional charge for you?
I’d say my Acne Studios camel coat because it’s the first item I purchased with my Net-a-Porter staff discount, and it’s a total classic that makes me feel like a boss.
Steph’s official photo by Anna Jacobs.
You are a big lover of sneakers. Why?
I love sneakers because they are obviously comfortable, but they are also cool and elegant. I feel like the coolest girl in the room wearing Nike Cortez with a silk suit.
Do you dress differently for different people and groups, or do you feel your style stays constant irrespective of who you will be meeting?
When I go on a first date for instance, I tend to wear something slim-fitting, comfortable and simple. I also usually go for my ‘armor’ of a chic coat and cool sneakers (perhaps more subdued like common projects, or my ALLSAINTS ankle boots). With my boyfriend, however, I'm a lot more comfortable (he has seen me in crazier looks now, jumpsuits, etc). If I felt like I had to constantly dress a certain way for him for the rest of time, I wouldn't be able to continue the relationship.
Sneakers and suiting make Stephanie feel like a boss. (Photo: instagram.com/stephieirwin)
What is one item, style, color, design that you do not and will ever like? Why do you think that is? Is it at odds with your personality?
I really hate ruffles. They make me look like a fat baby, for lack of a better way to put it. I think I just look so unhappy every time I wear them. I think the too-girlie vibe is at odds with me perhaps because I associate femininity to a degree with weakness, which I think has been engrained in most people within our patriarchal capitalist society. However, I also associate ruffles with my grandmother and creepy doll outfits she used to make, so perhaps I don't think resembling that would make me look my best.
What about your network and friends? Do you find that you gravitate towards, or get along better with, people who have similar tastes in fashion?
My friends and I are interesting because the ones who work in fashion tend to be similar to me (really love vintage, sneakers, tailoring, not too fussed with being ‘feminine’ or ‘sexy’) whereas my friends outside fashion tend to have quite simple tastes when it comes to clothes (basics, UNIQLO). I find, however, that my closest friends tend to be really into fashion too.
In the world of post-pandemic dressing, one word has taken social media by storm: cheugy (pronounced: chew-gee). In the worlds of fashion and lifestyle, cheugy describes a look, a thing or a person that’s considered out of date.