Case Study: Decoding Beth Harmon's Style on The Queen's Gambit

With The Queen’s Gambit breaking records to become Netflix’s most-watched scripted limited series, we thought that it was time to investigate the style of protagonist and chess prodigy, Beth Harmon. Fashion is a significant part of the show, with Beth’s sartorial choices often conveying as much as her words. 

Using the framework of The Big Five Personality Test (or OCEAN), we’re going to see what the traits of Openness, Conscientiousness, Extraversion, Agreeableness and Neuroticism tell us about her personality. Spoilers ahead.

OPENNESS: High

Beth’s character experiments with new contemporary silhouettes and armoresque make-up in The Queen’s Gambit, amid her ongoing struggle with addiction. (Photo: Netflix)

From her early curiosity for chess, alcohol dependence and addiction to tranquilizers, Beth has always been willing to seek out variety and novelty. This indicates openness, as does her high intellect and vivid imagination that allows her to see floating chess pieces on ceilings.

Upon winning her first tournament, she immediately heads to a shop and buys herself a chessboard and a sophisticated checked dress that catches her eye. She’s always ready to try something new, whether it’s in the world of chess, fashion or even makeup, such as her graphic eyeliner in Episode Six.

CONSCIENTOUSNESS: Moderate-High

Beth wears a particularly conscientious and neurotic dark outfit and with a turtleneck, as the stakes increase in European Championships and doubts are cast on her ability to win opponents. (Photo: Netflix)

Displaying impulsive and sometimes reckless behaviour, like spending her savings on clothes or getting drunk the night before an important match, Beth’s conscientiousness score appears low. However, she is truly dedicated to chess. She displays determination when training and has a clear desire ­to beat her biggest competitor, grandmaster Borgov. This goal-directed behaviour pushes her conscientiousness into low-moderate.

Beth generally puts thought into how she dresses, making sure she looks the part for her matches. Day three of the US Championship sees Beth wearing a pleated blue skirt, patterned V-neck and dark sunglasses, with her hair tied back in a silk headscarf. She understands the value in looking professional, especially in a sport where she’s usually the only woman in the room.

EXTROVERSION: Moderate

The feminine evolution of Beth’s style, as witnessed across the series, is often paired with accessories that allow her to hide behind what she’s wearing. (Photo: Netflix)

Beth doesn’t come across as overly sociable or outgoing, with the show’s costume designer, Gabriele Binder, calling her “an outsider – an interesting person who is going her own way”. Beth’s style reflects her loner status, as she often wears guarded, armor-like outfits. When she’s on edge in Paris, she opts for a defensive black turtleneck, starkly different to her usual feminine attire, perhaps to demonstrate a more serious side to her opponents.

Interestingly, one of Beth’s closest friends (and formal rival), Benny, is also a style outsider with his signature cowboy look. As Binder says, he doesn’t dress like the typical “chess geek” and neither does Beth. Her deviation from the muted, predictable style of the other players pushes Beth into moderate extroversion.

---

---

AGREEABLENESS: Moderate

Beth’s confident but feminine style allows her to stand out from the usual Chess crowd. (Photo: Netflix)

Beth’s style – and her attitude – changes throughout the series, getting less agreeable the more she succeeds. She starts off in Peter-Pan collars and pinafore dresses that earn her mockery at school, and is embarrassed enough to hide an offending coat in her locker.

As she becomes more successful, she cares less what others think. In Episode Five, she bumps into former high-school mean girl Margaret, who comments on how exciting her life must be. Beth’s sarcastic reply, “being around all those boys is a real thrill”, references a spiteful comment Margaret made years ago. Clearly, she’s no longer afraid to be seen as different – or tough.

Beth is always going to stand out in a room of predominantly older, male chess players and her polished, feminine outfits help her project a confident image. This is never clearer than in the series’ final scene where Beth wears an all-white outfit. Chic, poised and sure of herself, she resembles the White Queen of the chessboard.

NEUROTICISM: Moderate-High

Much like her addiction to chess, Beth doesn’t do much by halves. Pictured here shopping in Paris, her preened and perfect attire stands out within chess championships and a muted European backdrop. (Photo: Netflix)

With a habit of ruminating over past matches and self-medicating after losses, Beth seems like a candidate for high neuroticism. She doesn't do well with what she can't control and this is perhaps why she takes such care over her outfits. Symmetry often features ­in her fashion, such as the tan and white checked coat she wears in Russia (Episode Seven) or her gingham swimsuit in Mexico City (Episode Four). This attention to detail suggests that she is sensitive to aesthetic, which is yet another (more positive) aspect of neuroticism.

Curious about your own Big 5 personality scores? Take the test on PSYKHE.

---

---