For the first time in a while it felt that New York Fashion Week was bursting with energy, creativity and diversity. Once lacking in a sense of occasion, New York was abuzz with anticipation around Raf’s New collection for Calvin Klein. Elsewhere, designers like Telfar, Christian Siriano and Ekhaus Latta practiced what they preach in terms of inclusivity and diversity. It was also going to be interesting to see what Marc Jacobs would send down the runway this season after all the gossip around his label struggling. Here are the top five collections from New York Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2018:

1. CALVIN KLEIN

Calvin Klein Autumn/Winter 2018 (Photo: vogue.com)

This was a timely collection inspired by American heroes set in a post-apocalyptic farm wasteland. What is most admirable bout Raf is his ability to blend his vast references into an oblivion to the point where they become so unrecognizable yet so familiar. The blend works beautifully here. Apparently, this is the final installment of a trilogy Raf has designed, hinting the following collection to be very different. I love that he has created a narrative for Calvin Klein, instead of changing it each season. It’s a story, and each collection is a chapter.

2. MARC JACOBS

Marc normally shows one of the best collections in New York. And while the colors of this show were enigmatic, and the set, soundtrack and hats made for a cinematic mood, this was a very literal interpretation of 80s haute couture. What was most noteworthy about it, and why it's included in the Top 5, was the fact that in typical Marc Jacobs fashion, he did the exact opposite of what people expected him to do: a commercial collection. This was a giant middle finger to the press, buyers and the fashion audience that says Marc has lost his touch. And that's something to get behind.

3. ECKHAUS LATTA

Eckhaus Latta was brilliant. It felt so sincere. The casting, the clothes, the setting. You can tell they really believe in what they’re doing. That garners respect. So much of fashion is done without integrity, but this collection was bursting with it. None of this inclusive, feminist narrative that isn’t reflected in the casting or clothes. They really walk the walk.

4. COACH 1941

There’s something so interesting about viewing classic Americana tropes through the lens of a British fashion designer. With his cowboy boots, the patchwork quilting, shearling coats and the hippie prairie dresses, Vevers’ has masterfully created a modern, wearable wardrobe that suits many customers' needs in an approachable way. What could be more American than that?

5. TELFAR AW18

Fashion that feels gimmicky or disingenuous is tiring. If there was one feeling that stood out at this New York Fashion Week, it was sincerity. This presentation in particular. Telfar's work has a lot of interesting things to say being black in America and about queerness and non-binary gender roles. Designers like him are the future of fashion. They’re pushing the conversation forward. They are the new guard. And that’s something worth getting excited about - the rock band at the presentation felt quite fitting.