We seek what we need, but do we really need what we seek? Do I need a new pussy-bow silk blouse? Maybe not. Do I need another 70s maxi dress? Hmm, my wardrobe is already filled with plenty of those. Will I survive without a $2,500 embroidered bolero or a $3,500 suede cape? Sure, my obsessive nature will find me a dupe at my favorite vintage shop. Besides, the high street will be bursting with countless options in no time, and at a fraction of the price, nonetheless. It’s tempting to pretend that fashion has no claim over us, but how come I can’t stop thinking about Celine’s Fall 2020 collection? Why am I considering skipping next month’s rent (or six)? Astute as always, Hedi Slimane fills that void I didn’t know I had.
By now we can agree that fashion is the tangible representation of our innermost selves. Some of us consider it a language. Others refuse to see it as anything else but a mere set of “codes” – that reads too easy and lacking in ambition, no? If you’re anything like me, chances are that you speak Slimane. Don’t play cool; you perfectly know what I mean. Just like every season, your excitement over the show has felt almost palpable for weeks – an anticipation comparable to the one that builds up weeks before a rock concert. Once the date comes, you know there will be a grand light show for the opening act (outlining Celine’s Triomphe emblem this time around), a scathingly subversive trove playing in the background (this season’s soundtrack was Sophia Bolt’s Get Out of My Head), and the classic parade of leggy characters on stage. In fact, you know most of their names, first and last, just like the names of people sitting front row: Charlotte Rampling, Jane Birkin, Benjamin Biolay, Alexa Chung, Miles Kane – talk about the degrees of separation right there. A place filled with icons and yet the vibe isn’t entirely intimidating; you’ve adopted everyone in the room as part of your tribe.
There is no doubt that there are particular looks that make up a Celine show. Contrary to popular decree, it’s not a bore – you perfectly know your own style, that’s why you keep coming back. You’re relieved that Hedi is still, unapologetically, doing Hedi. Those who aren’t fond of the French creative director will argue and moan about the lack of forward mobility at Celine. Arguably, his constant cultural mining, zeitgeist parades, and never-ending rock-and-roll homages make for many a dish difficult to digest. But Slimane is no poseur; he’s not feeding into the musical myth for extra cool points, he’s righteously leading the band. Call it fanaticism, but once you find what you seek, you hold on to it tight.
Photo: vogue.com
As Celine’s front man, Slimane knows that revolt is best served cold – in 111 looks for Fall 2020, that is. Collection 06 marked the first co-ed show for the house, a collection perfectly constructed to fit both men and women. Genderless fashion is familiar territory for Slimane, but, even if it wasn’t explicitly suggested on the show’s notes, blurring traditional canons is a given for Celine folks – it’s second nature. Some call it provocation, but fashion can be boring without a bit of controversy.
Photo: vogue.com
That cropped Breton knit paired with fitted trousers and Cuban-heeled boots was probably your outfit last week at that new bar in Saint Germain you keep forgetting the name of. You were so damn cold that night you wished you had your girlfriend’s leopard coat to keep you warm. Too bad she was in New York. She’s probably getting dressed up for dinner tonight at Frenchette before dancing all over the LES. She’s made up her mind on wearing those Mary Jane platforms you love so much, deep purple shirt and suede skirt. Your red Teddy jacket will do for the plane back to CDG.
Celine’s Fall 2020 revived glories past: lustrous velvet (jackets, tailored blazers and trousers, short suits, skirts), detailed hand embroidery (midi and maxi dresses), and soft leather (trench coats, pants, A-line mini skirts). Oversized coats and accessories, like long printed silk scarves and romantic ruffled cravats, accentuated the overall visual in deep-jeweled tones. This season’s sparkling dresses, fluttering culottes, and bags spoke of the Parisian bourgeois aesthetic that has been on loop in Slimane’s repertoire, as if a catchy tune he rediscovered a year ago which for some reason other fashion houses also hum along to. However trends aren’t your thing. For you, these clothes bring you closer to your music heroes. Somehow rock from the 60s/70s hit the right note in your ear. Just like your clothes, you like your music classic and exhilarating.
From the outside, the Celine crowd may seem quiet and reserved compared to their extroverted peers – sorry, no small talk here – but their shiny wrapping makes up for their apparent absenteeism. It’s not too loud, just enough to make a stance. But truthfully, there isn’t always something to stand up against. Plus you have your crystals to fight off evil vibes and line your chakras with. Sometimes you just want to look and feel good – for the outside to match your inner self, with clothes that help you become. Maybe a dash of Reptile to help you zone off too.
Why the American fashion capital and its millennial consumer seem to be obsessed with nostalgia, how The Row outdid itself again, and the controversial element in Raf Simons’s looks…